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I had a QUEEN STOVE SUPERFLAME with a dual chamber

I've worked on many of these....some houses were still heating with these just 30 yrs ago

I see it has buttons on the remote for how many hours you want it to run (presuming it starts a timer at dusk). There is no programmable timer such as 8:30 to 11:30, just 3 hours past dusk? Looks like a decent amount of light output, though.

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I remember the day when I came to your channel looking for help with my furnace, thanks again!

Your videos are great!!! Keep up good work.

Once again you've advised your viewers improperly starting with suggesting the meter be closed down for the simple issue w/the old style valve handle not turning easily. Loosten the nut at the bottom a bit turn the valve off then re-tighten period. The idea of replacing those wonderful old valves with the newer is a waste of money and then you really are shutting down service and relighting pilots. Do you work for those guys? Be honest. You certainly aren't misguiding

Thank you

Well when you rip em apart like that you kinda always usually have to replace the parts you broke.

Great video!

Great video. Thanks. It would be awesome if you would make a video on insulating the outdoor suction line to condenser vs no insulation so as to compare to torn deteriorated old insulation. To see if it’s worth the cost to re insulate the lines after they old wears off. Also would be cool if you added insulation inside condenser to pump and maybe even pump? Wondering cost savings . Bad hood for system. Thanks for all the great videos

Another superb run-through for how to adjust charge in an R410A split system with a TXV. I’m finalizing the charge in a similar system right now. It has a brand new condensing unit, but I am still using the existing evaporator and line set. So I knew additional R410A would need to be added to the pre-charged amount which was already in the new condensing unit. It required about 3 LB to be added. I think I’m getting close to the right amount now, but will make one more test of subcooling, indoor supply vs. return air temperature split, and superheat exactly like what is shown here in this video.

What do u think about adjust belt tension to spec in the install manual, for example 100 lbs for a new belt 80 for a worn in belt. Do u thinks that's to tight

Does NOT reduce the amp draw by the compressor, simply supplies part of it from the capacitor. Total amps are the same so the compressor sees nothing different.

Hello Grayfurnaceman! Long time I haven't heard of you.

Mister you ought to get into politics-that was the worst, long-winded, most convoluted explanation of the operation of a regulator ever!

Some AC dude says that will mess up your AC unit😮😮😮😮

perfect ... that is exactly the video i need... no one else explains it.... Thank you

Ain’t got no gas in it

Horrible video

My ac has a 150 contactor LRA rating. I can't find one lower than 180 LRA. Can I use a higher rated one?

I am trying to find out if there is a way to adjust the temperature readout because mine is always reading high compared to several other thermometers I compared it to.

Interesting how with natural gas a bright yellow flame is cooler than a nice blue flame without yellow tips, seems like just the opposite with wood GFM? With wood the brighter the flame is, the hotter it is in my experience. Any thoughts are welcome.

My dad and I discussed this many years ago. Not being HVAC techs we weren't sure. Thank you! And Happy Father's Day!

“One wire only in the clamp” 👍 KISS principles for the win!

Thsnk you

Thanks for the video. Probably saved me a few hundred. I had the bug stuck in the contacts.

so I followed these steps, it got my appliance to work but not the outlet. I only have a black (hot) and white (return) in the wall. I did (from a previous video remove the fin). Thinking that that would allow each to be powered independently as I need the outlet to be always hot. back to the drawing board. But I got farther with this video than any other.

I’m a DIY type and I use hard duct with insulation wherever I can when retrofitting my 100 year old house. The only place I used flex duct was installing retrofit jump ducts from the upstairs bedrooms to the hallway. But I used a larger diameter than the supply ducting to compensate for the added friction.

Good info especially the stretching right out of the box

Awesome video !! 👍

👍 It's a shame that you have to do a video about fixing installers' work. They should know better.

Just stopping by to say hell-o, and thank you so much for your help with me installing an inline fuse in my other HVAC (did everything you said step by step to install a new transformer and electrical testing everything for a short); with all the info I gather from listening to you. Please do not ever say you didn't help anyone... you definitely helped me! I am still checking your channel and website when I can. Glad to see you have/are healed from your surgery. Blessings to you and your family.

Great video GFM. We need more like it when you can.

Lets say I installed the black/white wires coming from the house to the L R posts instead of the LINE posts? (because of some other idiot on RUclips that I listened to.) When I turn the breaker on, turn the A/C on at the thermostat, then I hear a poof and the next thing I know my brand new fuses are now toast.. I'm guessing that being wired up wrong is what caused my fuses to blow and not something else ..

Can this meter test the output frequency of a VFD? Some meters will turn off automatically if they don't like VFD's.

The real question is what is the static pressure of a crushed flexible duct ….. Answer: it depends how crushed it is … I do know however , that adding an adjustable 90 is equivalent to five additional linear feet …thus increasing the load on the blower potentially …. So adding a 90 could be worse in some instances….although it will prevent crushing

Good to hear from ya GFM ... Nice little vid with good info ... Thx

I haven't worked for any company that would let me take the time or extra money to use elbows like that.

Here in australia we used to have flex ducts with a semi rigid perforated aluminium core (like the dryer ducts you have in the states) They were insulated with fiberglass and a clear polyethylene sleeve. They had very low friction loss and never sagged. That style lasted from the eary 70s throug to the late 80s when interlock was introduced. That had a silverish tarpaulin type fabric core and a mechanically locked wire and plastic channel. They were very good. The semi rigid ones forced installers not to cut corners and make tight bends and squash them. Although I have seen them kind of crushed to fit but not as bad as modern flex. If you look up "flexmaster triple lock" thats pretty much how it was.

Great video, thank you. I wish that I could find flex duct with a better insulation value than R8. I have flex duct in my attic, and there is significant unwanted heat transfer between the duct and the attic on the longer duct runs. I find it interesting that while the ceiling has R30 insulation (I believe), the duct work in the attic only has an R-value of R8. PdZ.

More videos like these good sir. Thank you

Great video, GFM! In FL, I've seen the worst installations for Flex duct. I agree with that sheet metal elbow and then the flex connection to increase airflow. Im a longtime fan of your videos. Hope all is well. Take care!

How do you deal with ducts sweating when you lay them on a plywood runner?

ducts don't belong in hot/cold attics anyway - there's always a way to avoid but builders are cheap!

The duct work in my house is awful. The unit is lower and all the flex come out and go higher and bends all over the place. Should install elbows to help it circulate better?

But that was only with one little mister oh each side, if you double or triple them or more .. ?

I appreciate the use of a tool (e.g. screw driver) to help guide the viewer to the correct part or component 👍

What’s that white board in the back called the one with the holes

Great info ,thank you a lot👍